It was never my intention to me in Nicaragua this long, just two months shy of five years. Even now I can still feel the magic of the mornings - the cacophony of birds and roosters vying for positions of importance in the avian kingdom, accompanied by the waves crashing along the sandy shoreline and the howl of the monkeys not too far away. I look around and cannot believe that I am watching the bright orange and yellow-spotted orioles dart through the bare branches and the pair of exquisitely blue and green colored guardabarrancos dangle like pretty earrings in the orange-blossomed malinche tree next to me.
I feel as if I am on vacation. Those moments appear now and then, transporting me back to childhood vacations in Florida or my first trip to Nicaragua. It still feels magical, even with the cynicism of five years as an expat in the second poorest country in the hemisphere. The frustrations are momentarily forgotten as I enjoy the light breeze sweeping across me as I write slunk back in a chair while looking at the brightly colored boats anchored in the harbor and the men riding their bicycles to the port. Thanks to the generosity of my landlord, I am sending the week at the nice house surrounded by curving walkways and tropical plants with a view of the harbor, a large covered patio and more importantly with air conditioning to combat the oppressive heat. We live in a tiny two-bedroom cottage with bad air flow. It’s small, but it works. For the moment I am spoiled, as the three-bedroom house with the view also has a table for twelve in the living room. We are tempted to upgrade our living environment, but at the same time we like our affordable rent that includes internet, cable, utilities, on-site security, and twice-a-week maid service. I am not sure of the view (which for some reason reminds me of California) is worth the increase in rent. For now, we are just enjoying sleeping in a cool room.
We live on the hill overlooking San Juan del Sur, exactly one kilometer from our store. It’s not too difficult a walk into town, but the walk back includes an ass-kicking finale - a hill that requires 4-wheel drive to ascend. We live at the top of the hill. I look for any excuse to add hydrocarbons to the atmosphere, as walking up the hill with a bag of groceries in this heat is a prelude of hell. Despite the climb, other friends have made this little community their home. Our friends Eric and Stephanie, who own Pan de Vida and make the best wood-fired bread in the world, live here with their cat, Toots, and dog, Bruiser. Sarah and Justin live here as well, until just recently wit their dog Cooper. A few weeks ago, Cooper passed away, surrounded by our little group of friends. We are all animal people and leave our doors open most of the time, so our pets have decided to broaden their bases and at almost any given time, Richmond is asleep in Stephanie’s closet or Nicky is sprawled on Sarah’s table while Cooper is sleeping in my kitchen, waiting for food to be dropped onto the floor while Bruiser cleans every morsel from the cat bowls. All the animals get along. It’s strange without Cooper.
Our compound is covered with trees. In a month the foliage will return and the temperatures will drop and I will be so much happier. The end of the dry season is the most miserable time of year. It’s like cabin fever in the winter, with oppressive heat replacing the snow. I try to look on the bright side and appreciate the random flowering tree and the chance to see the birds normally obscured by leaves. Last night I saw three parrots with yellow bellies in the tree above the house we actually rent. Each morning and evening a squirrel comes to chat with the cats, following their every move. Each night a skunk or two make their way down the hill, looking for scraps. Occasionally I see a possum, too.
Right now I am gazing at the bay, oblivious to all but the moment.